Diy Ar 15 - We have a lot to discuss, so we'll keep it short: you want to build an AR-15 from the ground up. You may have no idea where to start. We'll teach you everything you need to know! The rifle we put together in this guide is a typical AR-15 with a 16 inch barrel, chambered in 5.56/.223. It's the gold standard for almost all weapons (the nice thing is that you can adjust it later). First, we'll look at the relevant gun laws and answer some questions you're likely to have. Then we explain every part you need to build your own AR-15 kit, including which parts are best for a well-rounded, affordable rifle. Finally, we discuss the different types of ARs and calibers you can build (a rifle, a pistol, or a short-barreled rifle/SBR).
A: Yes, with some limitations. The ATF has long held the view that it is 100% legal to build your own AR-15 (and most guns) at home for personal use. You need special papers to build a short barreled rifle (SBR), which is considered an NFA item. We don't have to worry about that now, we're building a regular gun.
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A: It depends. If you're building your AR-15 with a stripped lower receiver, you'll need to go through an FFL, fill out some paperwork, and do a background check. If you build your rifle or pistol with an 80% lower receiver, you don't have to in most states. Some states require it, like California. Check your local and state laws before building.
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A: It also depends. If you buy a stripped lower receiver it will have a serial number for paperwork and your background check. 80% reductions do not require a serial number by federal law. The ATF does not require a serial number for homemade firearms made for personal use, but some states do. Again, check your local and state laws on this.
A: An 80% lower receiver is an empty firearm. You can use one to build your AR-15 at home, and that's what we specialize in. Click here for a complete guide and 80% off FAQ.
If you have more questions about building before you start, just email or call us. We are happy to help you. We'll even get the guy who wrote this guide to help you out if needed.
Regardless of configuration or caliber, the AR-15 can be broken down into two main components: the upper receiver assembly and the lower receiver assembly. You'll need to do some assembly and assembly with parts on the lower receiver, but first let's break down all the parts into each half:
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Most barrel upper receivers, like those that come with our own kits, come pre-assembled and ready to fire. To make things easy, you can take one with everything assembled and configured correctly.
First, let's look at all the best receiver parts you need. They play an important role in shaping how your AR-15 looks and feels. None of these parts are considered firearms, so if you are confident in your choice, you can order your parts and have them shipped to your home. No FFL or paperwork required for any of these things.
The barrel is arguably the most important part of your AR build. The barrel determines how accurate your gun is, how far you can shoot, and what shots you fire. You have to consider material (grade of steel), finish (type of coating or treatment), liner (chrome plated or not), length (which can handle speed) and twist rate (determines the type of shot you will shoot).
Most AR-15 barrels are made from three grades of rifle steel: 4140 Chromoly, 4150 Chromoly Vanadium (CMV), or 416R stainless steel. The most popular and common barrel choice is the 4150 CMV. These barrels most closely match the "mil-spec" requirements for barrels found in service-issued military rifles. 416R stainless steel tubes are considered the most accurate. 4140 Chromoly barrels perform admirably for most shooters, and they will save you money.
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Most barrels come with a Melonite or anodized coating. These coatings create a matte black finish over the barrel and rifling, protecting them from rust and corrosion. Stainless steel barrels have no finish, but are naturally resistant to rust and corrosion. With regular cleaning, a stainless steel barrel will last just as long (if not longer) than a CMV or Melonite treated barrel.
Some barrels have their rifling plated with chrome to extend barrel life and protect against heat. Melonite is an alternative to chrome liners and generally provides better accuracy. Chrome liners may reduce the barrel's accuracy slightly, but it greatly increases the barrel's performance, especially when shooting rapidly.
Loop length is a tricky subject. We assume you are building a traditional AR-15 chambered in 5.56/.223. To achieve optimal velocity with the minimum legal barrel length, we recommend sticking with a 16" barrel. This length yields an optimal velocity of approximately 2,940 FPS with Federal 62-grain 5.56 ammo. For comparison, stretch it all the way to a 20 inch barrel only increases velocity by about 120 feet per second.
Twist rate refers to how many times the screw thread completes a full revolution. The AR distortion percentage varies from 1:12 to 1:7. A barrel with a rotation rate of 1:7 completes one full revolution every seven centimeters. We recommend sticking to a twist rate of 1:7 or 1:8. These speeds can reliably handle the most common 5.56 and .223 loads (55, 62 and 77 grains).
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The gas system in your AR-15 determines how your rifle moves and feeds ammunition. A typical AR-15 operates with direct impact, illustrated above. This process involves sending excess gas through the barrel, through a gas pipe and back into the upper receiver. The gas is forced into a wrench on top of the bolt carrier group, forcing it rearward. As the BCG retracts, the spent cartridge is ejected and a new bullet is cased and ready to fire.
There are four types of gas systems for the AR-15: rifle, mid-length, carbine, and pistol. We keep it simple with a nice diagram:
A carbine or medium gas system can reliably handle any 5.56 or .223 cartridge you send down the line. Pistol and rifle gas systems are intended for special builds, such as a subsonic/suppressed AR-15 chambered in 300 Blackout, or a 20-inch long bench rifle made to fire specialty loads.
The AR-15 market offers two types of handguards: Free-float and drop-in. A free-floating hand guard does not attach to the barrel or gas block. This increases accuracy by removing stress on the barrel. A drop-in handguard attaches to the gas block/front sight post. This provides a more secure fit, and what is the military's advantage over its service rifle.
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[Image at left, a free-floating hand guard "floats" above the gas block. Pictured on the right is a typical Picatinny M4 handguard attached to the gas block/front sight post.]
There are also three mounting systems to choose from: M-Lok, Picatinny and Keymod. Allows you to attach accessories to your handguard, such as flip-up sights, flashlights and lasers. A flat face handguard is intended for a precision bench rifle. It has no attachment points and offers an ergonomic, smooth grip without any accessories or sharp objects.
Whatever handguard you choose, you need to make sure it is designed for your AR's gas system. Handguards will describe if they are for a carbine, medium or other gas system. If you choose a hand guard that is too short, your gas line and gas block will be exposed. You can choose a hand guard that is longer than your gas system if you want more space (pictured above, left). You just need to make sure it's a free-floating hand guard, not one that attaches to the gas block (pictured right).
Fortunately, bolt carrier groups (BCGs) are pretty universal in the AR world. To build a standard 5.56/.223 shooter, you only need to choose between a standard AR-15 BCG or an M16, Full-Auto BCG. We hate to burst your bubble, but an M16 BCG will do
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Turn your semi-automatic shooter into a fully automatic blaster. The only difference between the AR-15 and the M16 BCG is that it is sturdier.
Pictured on the left is an M16 BCG. Pictured on the right is an AR-15 BCG. Note the difference in material on the back of the holder. All other dimensions and functions are exactly the same.]
The charging handles are also pretty standard acceptable. You can pick up special handles with extended handles, but otherwise most charging handles get the job done.
Functionally, all upper receivers are the same for an AR-15 chambered in 5.56 or .223. Regardless of external shape or size, most receivers universally accept all barrels, gas tubes and BCGs. If you choose to build an AR in a different caliber (like 9mm, .308 or 6.5 Creedmor) it does not apply. Upper receivers are typically made from either billet 6061 T6 aluminum or forged 7075 T6 aluminum. Choosing the right stripped upper comes down to personal preference, what sights you want to use, and how you want your rifle to look. There are a few variations of the AR-15 top receiver:
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This classic upper features an integrated grip handle and rear sight. If you want to build an original "mil-spec" M16 clone, this is the receiver you want. The integrated
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